1990 White GT Back-Up Car


Active member
I just realized I never posted a thread for my white 1990 GT. I'm not sure how that didn't happen. I have had this one for several years now. The intent with this one is to keep her mostly stock and restore her slowly using her as a backup car when I'm working on my black 92 GT. In truth I have put around 30000 miles on her the last few years. No major failures and I have only done a few things to her: brand new o.e.m cup holder, new o.e.m. intake piping, new water hoses (sorry not o.e.m., but silicone hoses with the o.e.m. clamps (at least they're are black), new thermostat, new alternator belt, and new plugs.

Recent development:

Heater blower went down last night. I'll pull the heater blower motor and see what is up. I might have an extra on hand.

I also think one of several things is going with her: clogged fuel filter, clogged CAT, or slipping clutch. It is hesitating badly from a start at the end of my commute in the morning where it wouldn't actually roll forward. A little hesitation at the start of my commute. I ruled out distributor and plugs last night. I'll start with a new gas fuel filter since it is past time.

When I finish my black GT car I want to pull the motor and replace all seals including the head gasket, re-surface the flywheel, new clutch, new water pump, and new timing belt. I also have a powder coated gloss black valve cover that will go on. I will make sure I do a compression check, and a leak down test to see exactly where the rings are at. I'll inspect the valves when I have her apart, but I have a feeling they are still good. I will have the head and block planed to make sure the head gasket will seal properly.
This what she looked like when I first got her:








Nice to have a back up... and one that looks good.

On your heater... don't pull it just yet. just pull the plug first and see if you have power at the plug first... maybe you already did this.

The suzuki switch on the dash is a frequent place for failure.

Best of luck.
It has power to it, and I checked the resistor which looks okay. I'll put a voltmeter on the plug before I pull it. I just know that it was still spinning but very slowly.
I went to pull the heater blower motor and the first thing that happens is that the key breaks off in the door lock. Not the start that I want. Trying to get the door card off when it is closed is not the easiest thing. I accidently broke the plastic stubs that the grommets go over to connect the top panel to the rest of the door card. I got the door open, removed the lock and took that apart to remove the chunk of key stuck inside. That all went smoothly. I took a look at the latch mechanism since it was sticking and requiring that I first unlock it from the inside and then unlock and open it from the outside. I lubed everything down, and made sure everything slid properly. I end up doing this five times before I discovered what was wrong. I simply didn't have the latch bar screwed in far enough and the Suzuki latches have an extra tab slot on them that will prevent the lock from fully releasing. The Geo ones did away with the extra tab slot (must be for another application). All the years of fixing Geo handles I never had to screw the latch bar on so far. Now at least the door works great. I also put on the new outside window door seal on my black GT and put that one on this car since it was in a lot better condition. I will probably have to buy a plastic welder to fix the door card. For now it can stay off.

I got the heater blower fixed also. I happen to have three extras on hand. Only one of the three actually was good. Of course it was the third one that I tried actually worked right. The other two I ended up opening up the motor caps to see what was going on. After blowing them clean of bushing debri I could clearly see that the bushing on both motors had run right down to the nib of the bushing. Nothing left. I will have to see if there is still a way to get motor bushing of the correct size that will fit the two slots. Then all I would have to do is solder the copper braided lead back to centering cap lead. Probably a good idea to have two correct diameter springs of the correct tension since they appear to get mangled when the bushings reach the end. It is good to know that these can be fixed.

Gas filter is on the way. I think I will run a bottle of sea foam through gas tank also.
Congrats on the door fix and getting the heater fan working...absolutely no fun with no heat in winter months...been there.

I just had my heater fan not working kinda just running slow... ended up being the switch in the dash...changed it out now full blow speed from the fan.
Nice work :laugh:

What do you mean with:
'I will run a bottle of sea foam through gas tank also.'
Walt said:
Nice work :laugh:

What do you mean with:
'I will run a bottle of sea foam through gas tank also.'

It is having a hesitation after running for a bit where it actually wouldn't not go forward. Sea Foam is a great little product for cleaning out the fuel system including injectors.
I replaced the fuel filter, but is still bogging down even at start up. It does it in idle and feels like the cat is clogged. I'll run the sea foam through to make sure before I cut the cat off. No codes. I'll dig out FSM and run through everything else first just to be thorough.
Prognosis not great! I did a compression check. Dry 145, 145, 81, 145. Number 3 is looking like the rings are shot. I'll do a leak down test and go from there. Not the end of the world since there was nothing cataclysmic and I was already planning a engine rebuild for it. Nothing fancy with this one other than ARP headstuds. Bore one size over (if I can get away with it), new rings to match, reuse stock pistons and rods, new bearings, Felpro head gasket and gasket set, new stock clutch, re-surface flywheel. I'll have the block and head planed, but depending on the leak down test I wanted to leave the head alone other than planning. Polish the crank also. Most likely won't happen until next Summer at the earliest.

Best $800 vehicle I have owned considering I put almost 100,000 with no major problems.
I want to get the engine pulled for this one soon. I have half the stuff on hand to rebuild. She is sitting collecting too much dirt.
She took a hit from a good sized tree couple days ago. Passenger door is most likely not fixable on top of the window being completely busted out. I took a hard hit to the middle of the door edge and roof. I was able to pop the middle back out, but I will have to take the ceiling panel off and see if I can straighten the edge of the roof. The hood also took a wallop but should be fixable along with a crack diagonally across the windshield. Freaking wind storm.
That is dissapointing.
At least it did not happen when you where driving.
I clean out the glass today, and but in a window I picked up from a local forum member from Geometroforum. I tried fixing the door, but no real luck. It is hard to get to the internal part of the door. This is the same for the roof I could not get to the pinched part of the tent on the edge of the roof. I even cut open a panel from the inside but I can still not get to that section. I will try slicing open the inside of the corner with a dremel to see if I can use a flat tool to push up the pinch from the inside. If that doesn't work I do have a stripped down parts car that I can possibly cut out a section and weld it in. I really don't want to do that. At least for the moment it is not going to take any water damage. I started it up today and moved it away from the tree. It would not idle, but that is not surprising with the gas being as old as it is or the compression on number three. I'm almost thinking about just pulling the engine and doing a rebuild and transfer all the parts to another shell.