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By Walt
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#14324
Nice :laugh:
Lots of work still.
Indeed those AN fittings are expensive.
But they take the abuse of heat and pressure ;-)
Good luck finishing your project.
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By GT4LIFE
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#14337
I was able to use one of the 4 AN hoses that came with the turbo for the oil feed hose, and this freed up a 4 AN 90 degree fitting. The hose was nylon oil rated with stainless braid which is way more flexible and it fit so much better for the oil feed then the 90 and 45 degree p.t.f.e. hose that I was using. I mangled the 45 fitting when I was playing around with the hose hook up but the 90 will work for one side of the water hook up for the wastegate. I have plenty of 4 AN hose on hand and all I need now is a straight 4 AN and a new coupler (cheaper). I was also able to use another 4 AN hose that came with the turbo for the other wastegate h2o line. I ordered up on Ebay two 6 AN to 6 AN to 4AN T fittings (decent price; quality is the same for these). The Y fitting that I was going to use coming out of the thermostat housing wouldn’t fit which I discovered after going to test fit the radiator shroud. I’m glad I wait on the orders for this stuff until after the test fit. I will need three 6 AN straight fittings to connect to T fittings; I have one 6 AN on hand. This all saved a quite a bit of money.

I’m still playing around with the oil feed hoses to the remote mount. Today I’ll take the hoses off and connect a straight on one side and see where I can get it to route safely to the other end with the limited space.
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By GT4LIFE
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#14376
Like always I have been detoured by everything under the sun. Project is creeping to a close. I will prime the oil system today, and hopefully go for a test drive. I’ll try to take some new pictures today if I get a chance.
macuserman, Walt, DrelvisGTi liked this
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By GT4LIFE
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#14388
I completed the first few test drives and had her back up and running yesterday. The ball bearing turbo sounds like a small jet engine with the larger air intake. I will have to tweak the idle and the blow off valve a little but she ran pretty sweat! The Tial external wastegate with an 8 lbs spring holds her at 10 psi with the boost controller all the way turned down. I brought her up a few clicks which holds her a 12 psi. The internal wastegate in the the old turbo never held her solid and I was always fighting boost creep. The wideband even with the new sensor still wasn’t registering. I will try recalibrating one more time. If that doesn’t work I will send in for another sensor. If that doesn’t work I will try another wideband company altogether. The Centerforce old clutch is rated up to 190 hp and it wasn’t holding with the other turbo and now it really won’t hold if I don’t baby the turbo with the accelerator. The other clutch I have on hand is rated to I believe 280 hp but I cannot have my car down at the moment since it is my only vehicle. My white GT and the Ford Probe GT are both down. I have to have a reliable backup and I started setting up a purchase for a T3 turbo.
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By GT4LIFE
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#14395
I sorted a few loose ends today. My new Race Sport lifetime ballast HID were having issues with the high beams not working with the bi-xenon bulbs. The harness came plugged in the wrong way and a little swapping around of the pins and now they’re functioning correctly. I fixed an annoying misting of the oil cooler by cleaning down the viton o-rings and resealing. I plastic welded the front bumper top mount. I will have to grind it down to make it look more aesthetically pleasing.

I still can not figure out the o2 wideband sensor. I’m going to send the sensor in for a replacement, but after that I’m just going to try a new company. It is an Innovate Motorsport LC-2 wideband and it only worked for the first six months. I have tried a few different sensor replacements which is what the fault code is reading to no results. I absolutely hate that the wiring they use is ridiculously small and fragile.
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By blueturbofly
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#14435
i have had the same issues with many hid / led kits, having to swap pins in the sockets to get the headlamps to work properly with the wiring on these cars. i also do the relay mod while i am in there doing the headlamps. less electrical stress on the small oem wiring…..
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By GT4LIFE
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#14436
blueturbofly wrote: Wed Aug 17, 2022 8:28 am

i have had the same issues with many hid / led kits, having to swap pins in the sockets to get the headlamps to work properly with the wiring on these cars. i also do the relay mod while i am in there doing the headlamps. less electrical stress on the small oem wiring…..

It is only three wires, and I know that of the car using that plug they are not setting for our cars. I have used a starter relay in the past for another car for same reason, but the wiring for this one is in great shape.

So far I am happy with this new Race Sport Bi-Xenon Gen 6 Canbus HID slim ballast 9004B-5K-Gen6 system. It has a lot of stuff (the canbus) that we don’t need for our cars electrical, but the ballast are life time warranties which is the thing that goes out most frequently for me with the HID systems. Part of the wiring loom has a better sheath, but the connectors appear to be the same as a less expensive lower generation, or other company. I tried another company first and they flickered like crazy. They were ½ the price go figure.

The 5000k is just right in my opinion where it is not as cold white light that blinds everyone but whiter than a standard halogen bulb. They certainly put out more lumens

One thing I want to point out on ours cars is that if you are switching to a HID is that the flange for the bulb adapter for most 9004 bulbs is made too thick. I had to grind off a 1/16″ on the adapter to get our bulb lock downs to fit correctly ( they won’t turn all the way into the locked positioned). Compare a standard flange on a 9004 halogen bulb to what ever you use and that difference will give you the amount that you need to remove.
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By blueturbofly
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#14437
yes, the turn lock ring that holds them in….for some of my hid set-ups i have had to enlarge the inside of the ring itself, for the bulb to fit thru….same kits, different cars….
then had a heck of a time finding new bulb retainer rings for my ’87- brittle due to age- snapped in half when trying to remove them.

i use either 5000or 6000k for heat temp/ brightness….and a good polish on the composites, or swift glass lens (that you are so afraid of getting rock smashed :-o !!!!!!!)
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