Have a sweet ride? Tell us all about here!
  • User avatar
  • User avatar
User avatar
Posts Avatar
Today I got the return 1″ to ⅝″ aluminum Y pipe welded up. This will go in between my Greddy blowoff/bypass valve out and return 1″ nipple to my cold air inlet pipe pre-turbo. The other end will go along the engine bay to the Mishimoto catch can ( I’ll mount it in the corner between the passenger side strut tower and the firewall. I’m using Summit Racing 10 AN hose for this. All though it is says it is not recommend for barb fittings the Summit Stainless Steel Mesh hose works well with barb fittings. I gave it a go with my waterlines for my heater core. Not a drop of leak yet, and the pressure rating, temperature rating is pretty high. The hose’s inner layer is compatible with oil, water, and air and the stainless weave is pretty good quality. The catch can has ½″ nipple ports for all three. The Summit 10 AN hose will actually work with both ½″ and ⅝″ with a clamp however I will probably replace it with a 10 AN fitting on the can side and convert the pcv valve port to AN also just so I have a cleaner look. I priced out the components to run a shut off valve to the bottom of the catch can with a ⅜″ drain setup. Mishimoto sells the setup for $40 plus shipping, and I priced out the same components on Amazon for quite a bit less with free shipping. With the setup I can just slide the hose over the ⅜″ barb and run it straight down to a oil pan and open the shut off valve. No need to remove the can except to maybe do a yearly deep clean.

I also cut my exhaust off after my last resonator to the back of the muffler. I am switching to 2 ½″ stainless all the way back to the muffler. I also bought two more stainless steel v-bands to make the rear exhaust and muffler easy to remove and repair. I only got to the first v-band next to the muffler on last night. I discovered that my Magnaflow muffler is not quite 2.5″. It is a weird 2 7/16″. I was planning on replacing the muffler before I went turbo because it is a straight through design other then the face that it is centered on the inlet and offset on the single out because it was still too loud even with the two resonators but after putting the turbo on the car has gotten remarkably more quiet. I had to weld a little extension pipe on to the muffler to fit the v-band clamp. This will give me room to salvage the v-band clamp if I ever switch mufflers.

Last night I fixed one of the hangers so the muffler isn’t rubbing on the rear bumper skirt. The original owner had it really jammed up in there actually melting the plastic. I cut the hanger off and moved it up about an inch and over about and ½″. I left the other front hanger alone and it actually was positioned level. I still have to cut the back hanger and move it up on the muffler lowering the rear of the muffler to make clearance for the the v-band and the first 45 degree pipe.
User avatar
Posts Avatar
I cut and spot welded all the pieces. I still don’t own a TIG welder. The guy that did the welds is super good at TIG welding. This piece including the ends on the muffler and the other end took him a little over an hour. He said it wasn’t his best work.
macuserman liked this
User avatar
Posts Avatar
Front spoiler idea:


It will need to be heavily modified but looks like it has some potential. I would cut about two inches off the bottom folding it over to attach to a flat spoiler. I would also cut out to match the stock intercooler slot and fog lamps. This is a 1990 or 91 Geo Metro bumper flipped upside down.
User avatar
Posts Avatar
Wastegate Problems:
It is always something. With the complete free flowing exhaust I now have no boost limit. The remaining exhaust must have been acting as a boost re-stricter. I can also see the wideband creeping up at 10 lbs. I had gone up to 15 lbs for a second and it was lean, but thank God no knock or detonation. Won’t do that again. No apparent damage. This is where the lower compression probably saved the engine. The only way I can think to get back control over boost is to cut the divider plate down to allow some of the wastegate exhaust to immediately go over to the down pipe in the o2 housing. Also although I had already increased the diameter of the wastegate port it can still go larger. I will first run the wastegate port straight to the turbo out pressure port to rule out the boost controller (it is currently in the wide open off setting).

Turbo Oil Smoke/ Possible Leak:
I also have something burning off from the turbo. I washed it and it went away for a little bit (I thought it was residual oil on the outside of the turbo). It must have a small oil leak in the turbo feed. I cannot see it of course with the turbo blanket, metal heat guard, and heat sleeve over oil feed. I know from experience that the IHI turbo inlet feed constantly had a seal problem with the oil inlet adapter leaking. I believe the IHI turbo fitting is a 45 degree bubble flare fitting with 10 mm x 1.0 thread and the thread that screws into the turbo is 10 mm bsp (this might be ⅛ bsp; not all that familar with that thread) thread with a copper crush washer seal. This fitting also an oil flow restrictor. Not easy to source the adapter fitting. I went with a Fragola Bubble Flare 10 mm x 1.0 to 4 AN adapter. Now I’m wondering if the turbo fitting is really a AN or JIC 37 degree fitting or the crush washer didn’t seal, or I don’t have the AN fitting tight enough. This all means once again I have to take everything back apart for inspection. ARGH!

Update: On searching: I did find that the fitting is a 10 mm x 1.5 to ⅛ bsp with a concave unknown end. The fitting I used is 10 mm x 1.0; this definitely could be my leak. I found a company Kinugawa Turbo that makes replacement IHI parts. They have a 4 AN to ⅛ BSPT BSP Female C5-4 that I think would be the correct fitting. However, although the 10 mm x 10 fitting went on smoothly without forcing or cross threading I’m thinking about buying a different fitting to replace the stock fitting that may be compromised. They sell which is 10 mm x 1.5 banjo bolt with a 4 AN adapter with a 1 mm restrictor. This would also move the turbo oil feed away from the hot exhaust manifold runner.

On top of all this I need to soften the blow off valve as I think I’m hearing a little turbo flutter letting off boost. This should be the easiest one to fix since it only involves loosening on nut, and turn the adjuster shaft counter clockwise.

PCV System Delete with Baffled/ Filered Catch Can
On the good news there is no blow-by in the exhaust anymore since I installed the Mishimoto Catch can with baffle and internal 50 micron filter and deleting the PCV system. It took a little bit of work to make the stainless mounting bracket to position the can. It already had a nice rotating mount for positioning but this would not have been easy to mount with. I also had to drill out their tiny bracket that was using two 4 mm sheet metal screws to accommodate the two 6 mm stainless steel socket cap screws that I screw into the bracket I made. The bracket then slides over the inner strut mount bolt and locks it down using the strut mount tower upper lip to stop it from rotating. I ended up using a breather port fitting that I think was from a 1989 Ford Probe. It had a 90 degree bend in it and another 180 degree bend. I cut the 180 degree bend off and just used the 90. I original tried a straight ½″ barbed fitting with a ¼″ chunck of hose on it as a spacer that prevent the barb from going in to far. This barely cleared the intake port nipple directly across from it. Then I would have had to run it directly down and out the bottom of the intake runners or out under the throttle body. Neither one would work well. I then realized I could conveniently, and smoothly while keeping the hose level run it 90 degrees toward the driver-side and around the outside of the intake manifold back to the catch can now mounted on the passenger-side strut tower. I was tempted to order up a 90 degree barb to AN fitting, but the size that fits the rubber grommet on the valve cover is not ½″ or ⅝″ but a 9/16″ that no one makes. Except that Ford/ Mazda made that exact size pipe for their valve cover. It is also funny that I’m using the rubber grommet from the Probe also for my engine since it is a suitable replacement for that grommet. The PCV valves are the same diameter on both cars at ½″. This 1/16″ size difference from ½″ to 9/16″ will keep that area much cleaner with a tighter seal. I hated always cleaning up the residue from the PCV system. I’ll post some pictures when I get a chance.

Cold Air Return/Bypass Valve
The cold air return portion of the system required some careful cutting down of the adapter pipe I had welded up. I should have bought a 1″ by 3″ aluminum pipe to weld on the nipple to. I had to cut the 4″ pipe down to 3″, but it still worked minus a bead roll on one side. I also had to adjust the cold air return pipe by ½″ to allow for clearance of the headlight. It was tearing into the return hose. I should have welded on the bypass nipple just ¾″ further up stream.

Headlight Adjustment:
Fortunately in process I was able to adjust my passenger side head light that was not positioned right. Unfortunately, the outside adjustment had been stripped out. The nut on the outside for the adjustment should be loosened first before turning that adjuster. I had to manually pop the end bracket out of its retainer and rotate by hand the threaded bolt to desired tilt then but the bracket back in the retainer. I had to do this several times to get the angle correct.
  • 1
  • 20
  • 21
  • 22
  • 23
  • 24
mk2 t3 engine build

I think this is an external Suzuki block heater el[…]

Geo Metro Palooza is coming up early in Aug. Grea[…]

Casper 2.0


Western Canada meet

All things in time. If it happens again next year[…]