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By TheBlueMelon
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#6977
I recently purchased this car, a 1987 Chevy Sprint Turbo, that was used as a road rally car and landspeed car. My hope is to be able to modify it to run stage rallies, including gravel and tarmac. I am looking for suggestions on what tires, wheels, and suspension I should look at using.
The link below is a Google Photos album with pictures of my car as well as a 1994 Swift GT owned and raced by the same people. My friend purchased both from the former manager of the race team as they needed the garage space for newer and better racecars. (Look up Smith Auto Racing for more details about who owned the cars) I will add my knowledge of the story later. I had a whole paragraph typed up and accidentally closed the tab. 🤦‍♂️

https://photos.app.goo.gl/D6q89QUYT4uGerwz5
#6978
Update: I have removed and cleaned the throttle body, replacing the gasket along the way and when attempting to start the car, I was not getting any fuel. The previous owner relocated the battery into the cabin for better weight distribution, but their solution for extending the battery cables was not much more than 2 battery terminals bolted together with a couple fusible links attached for direct power to other components (I.E. Fuel Pump). This “solution” caused there to be a short to ground, resulting in a blown fuse and thus no power to the fuel pump. I have ordered parts to replace the wiring, but they will not be arriving until the 11th. I also ordered a Catalytic Converter as my car lacks one. I am contemplating whether or not I need to run any sort of muffler, I like the current exhaust setup (Straight side pipe), but It is not California emissions legal, and might be too loud for the tastes of the local police.
#6980
More info: The car has almost 34,000 miles. The previous owner ran a vacuum to and from cabin with a T valve to allow the driver to create a vacuum leak, theoretically increasing boost. I have never been able to test the effectiveness of it/if it works at all, but according to the boost gauge plumbed into the upper intercooler (P.O. also added a second intercooler, removing all A/C components at the same time) I make about 12psi at 5500RPM. That seems waay too high to me, and the engine “breaks up” when the wastegate dumps, so I need to figure out how to keep the boost down to something like 6-8psi. I’m not trying to make big power with this motor, and have no idea if the internals are stock or otherwise.
#6981
That’s rad! I dig it. Sounds like you’re going to street it, if it were me I’d get a muffler
for my own sanity and comfort level. I’ve done that I/C mod before, though didn’t
like the added lag. The factory set up is pretty perfect for just plain stock streetable
driving and quick spool up, the fun factor is very good.
The ‘breaking up’ is probably your fuel cut, is the check engine light flash for a moment
when it happens? Looks cool! Thanks for saving it and sharing!
What is that coming out of the top radiator?
TheBlueMelon liked this
#6987
jamalspelling wrote: Sat Nov 09, 2019 11:13 am

That’s rad! I dig it. Sounds like you’re going to street it, if it were me I’d get a muffler
for my own sanity and comfort level. I’ve done that I/C mod before, though didn’t
like the added lag. The factory set up is pretty perfect for just plain stock streetable
driving and quick spool up, the fun factor is very good.
The ‘breaking up’ is probably your fuel cut, is the check engine light flash for a moment
when it happens? Looks cool! Thanks for saving it and sharing!
What is that coming out of the top radiator?

My check engine light does come on when it happens, so the fuel cut is likely it. Is there a specific RPM that happens at?
The line coming out of the upper Intercooler is for a boost gauge in the dash. Idk how accurate the setup is. They plumbed it into one of the bolt holes for the plastic cover. The reason I say it might not be accurate is the fact that they used a T fitting instead of a straight one, so there is a vacuum/boost leak there.
I do have an old Toyota muffler lying around. My parts came in today, when I wasn’t expecting them until Monday. My plan is to make the pipe in a way that I can see how it sounds without the muffler, but still have a spot to weld it in if I want to.
I will be making a whole new pipe so if I do end up racing it I can install the straight pipe again. It currently sounds like it is a much larger motor (almost v6esque) than the 1.0L that it is.
I would like to be able to lessen the lag, even if that means running less boost.
#6988
Update: I added some photos to the Google album of the aforementioned wiring disaster, as well as the parts I purchased to fix it. I will likely have it running again Monday if all goes according to plan.
#6993
Delete the intercooler behind the grill, then it should spool up quicker.
If you have the factory hose that would make it easy, if not you have to fab
something. I would say away from the accordian style universal flex hose,
that’s gonna mess up the flow.
Fuel cut is triggered by air flow, not RPM. When the flap opens all the way in the
air intake meter, it will cut fuel. You can reduce boost to under 10psi where
it does not trigger the fuel cut as often. You can also remove the black plastic
cover that is siliconed on the underside of the airbox to access the spring
tensioner and tighten it up a handful of notches. Be sure to mark the original
settings as a reference and don’t slip or let go or it will release spring tension
entirely. Too much tension and it won’t idle, you can tighten it so much
that airflow can’t over come spring tension at normal idle so it won’t give
any fuel. Be sure to replace the cover or the elements will corrode the
internal wokings.
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By GT4LIFE
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#6994
I have not looked up close at the early VAF on that car, but typically there is an air temperature sensor inside the VAF, and that combined with the voltage signal from the door angle are sent to the ECU. The ECU in the VAF’s I have worked with controls the fuel cut based on those two signals. I would not mess with anything under the black cover as then your ECU is getting the wrong signal (it is tricking the ECU into thinking that is not getting as much air flow). At WOT this could definitely cause a lean condition and the ECU would never know it. Most of the these VAF’s actually use the restriction of the exhaust system to regulate air flow. Put a muffler on it and you won’t hit the fuel cut. Exhaust leaks will do the same thing if they are bad enough. High flow downpipes will definitely increase fuel cut also. If the stock boost controller is not there then put an aftermarket one on there and turned down the boost. The correct way around it would be take out the fuel cut with a different chip. There are not too many people messing with these types of chips. The guy called Teeth on here does custom chips.
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By TheBlueMelon
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#6996
Thanks for the info, I will definitely look into both the chip and some sort of aftermarket boost control. I don’t know what all sensors are supposed to be on the exhaust, but everything past the downpipe has been replaced with a straight pipe.
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