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#8393
Ok so I’ve been having an issue where my car would often not want to shift into first or second although second was better when I came up to a stop sign. As in physically did not want to go into gear at all. No grinding, just can’t do it refuses outright. I was starting to think that perhaps my transmission needed a rebuild so I’ve had that on my mind for awhile. Anyhow so today I got the car out jumped it whizzed around my neighborhood no problem. Came back and left it idling for 30min or so in the driveway to charge the battery. Came back out to move it and I can’t put it into any gear at all except reverse which grinds nasty so not sure that counts. Seems to me that whenever I have started it up and it is cold I have no problems but the longer I drive it or the hotter it gets the more I have this problem. When I’m driving it and things are working I can shift fine and I don’t seem to have an slipping happening. So my question is what the heck is causing this thing to not want to go into gear? Clutch is not that old few years now but I’m not really abusive when I drive it and doesn’t seem to slip so I’m just not sure. When the car is off, I can shift through all gears fine of course no problem. I’m not sure what I should be targeting as my issue here.
#8394
in the clutch set-up ? sounds like the clutch is not releasing from the flywheel, still letting some power thru to the gears while it is running. when it heats up, the metals expand enough to prevent proper dis-engagement ?

never mind, check the taillight fluid boiling point. :P
#8396
blueturbofly wrote: Fri May 29, 2020 1:26 pm

in the clutch set-up ? sounds like the clutch is not releasing from the flywheel, still letting some power thru to the gears while it is running. when it heats up, the metals expand enough to prevent proper dis-engagement ?

never mind, check the taillight fluid boiling point. :P

I know it sounds ridiculous but seriously the car was stuck in my street here for the past hour or so cooling down. Just went back out and was able to shift and bring it back into the garage no problem.
92GT wrote:

Inspect the clutch. Also look at the shifter mount bushings and linkage. Finally replace the cup bushings in the shifter.

I just need to have you come over and show me what the heck I’m looking at @92GT
92GT liked this
#8397
how is the clutch pedal cold, where is the friction point low mid high?
did you try to lift the foot a little, on different clutch setup pressure plate finger can touch clutch disc and make it spin so lifting the foot a little should disengage the disc if it your issue
#8398
I would always start with the things you can do before pulling the transmission. I have had manual transmission do similar things in the past related to transmission temperature. Mine turned out to be that I was using 80 90 weight motor oil vs. Synchromesh.

1st: I would confirm that it is all gears that won’t go in except reverse. Going into reverse has me thinking that it is internal and not the clutch or throw-out bearing.

2nd: I would take a look at the shift bar, and the rest of the bushings as above. It has to be pretty messed up to not shift or the bushings completely frozen, but that doesn’t work with temperature. You can visually inspect the bushings and have someone shift through the gears with car off. I cannot think of any heat difference in those external components.
3rd: Check the clutch cable adjustment. I have had that be out, but it would go in gear but act like an automatic with low fluid.

4th: Check to make sure the bottom seam of the transmission and engine is dry.
5th: Verify fluid levels; change fluid; check for particles in fluid.
#8399
GT4LIFE wrote: Fri May 29, 2020 3:54 pm

I would always start with the things you can do before pulling the transmission. I have had manual transmission do similar things in the past related to transmission temperature. Mine turned out to be that I was using 80 90 weight motor oil vs. Synchromesh.

1st: I would confirm that it is all gears that won’t go in except reverse. Going into reverse has me thinking that it is internal and not the clutch or throw-out bearing.

2nd: I would take a look at the shift bar, and the rest of the bushings as above. It has to be pretty messed up to not shift or the bushings completely frozen, but that doesn’t work with temperature. You can visually inspect the bushings and have someone shift through the gears with car off. I cannot think of any heat difference in those external components.
3rd: Check the clutch cable adjustment. I have had that be out, but it would go in gear but act like an automatic with low fluid.

4th: Check to make sure the bottom seam of the transmission and engine is dry.
5th: Verify fluid levels; change fluid; check for particles in fluid.

I am using synchromesh, I changed it myself so I do know what’s in it, without that I used to have some issues with the syncros in first and second years ago before I started using syncromesh.

I know this is going to sound weird but it seems like the hotter it gets the worse it gets like first goes first then second then third etc. Reverse doesn’t “work” but it’s different the other gears in that I can hear gears grinding when I try to put it in reverse where as the other gears I can’t put it in at all just won’t even move the shifter.

Regarding the other points I guess I need to spend some quality time inspecting everything. :-(
bostssgt wrote:

how is the clutch pedal cold, where is the friction point low mid high?
did you try to lift the foot a little, on different clutch setup pressure plate finger can touch clutch disc and make it spin so lifting the foot a little should disengage the disc if it your issue

I mean the clutch peddle seems to engage where it always does when I’m driving it, I drove around the neighborhood and we have some hills here etc and shifting was solid and it pulled hard up the hills no problem. I will experiment though and report back.
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