Here are the sizes and the cars you'll find them under.
18mm - 1989-91 SOHC 1.3L Swift
22mm - 1992-94 SOHC 1.3L Swift, 1989-91 GT/GTi
24mm - 1995-01 Swift/Metro, 1992-94 GT/GTi
25.4mm (1") - Addco
27mm - Whiteline
15mm - 1989-91 GT/GTi
18mm - 1992-94 GT/GTi, 1995-01 Swift/Metro
20mm - Whiteline
22.2mm (7/8") - Addco
1989-94 Metros have no bars. 1989-94 SOHC 1.3L Swifts have only the front bar. Neither have mounting points for the rear bar on the body, drilling required.
Any mistakes? Any more sizes? I'm assuming all '95+ cars had the same bars. What did the MK2/MK3 Swift sedan have? These sizes are based on cars sold in the US, they may or may not apply to cars sold in other markets.
Anybody know of any other aftermarket choices?
Gasoline Fumes wrote:
These sizes are based on cars sold in the US, they may or may not apply to cars sold in other markets.
You are correct, the Australian spec sway bars sizes are not accurately reflected in that listing.
K-Mac is another manufacturer of swift sway bars.
Sat Apr 18, 2009:
as an experiment, I put the 95 Metro bars on my 91. drove 20 twisty miles. it is more stable.
the lower A arms were predrilled for the end links.
the rear is a good straight up fit and i used 1.5"L 5/16 grade 7 bolts thru a 3/16" thick plate in the trunk.
i had to shift the muffler 1/2" to the outside for pipe clearance.
the front was factory ready for the bar clamps and i centered the bar so each link has the same slight tilt.
some front bar datum:
0.865" bar is 36.75" L
0.955" bar is 37.375" L (94 GT)
0.940" bar is 38" L (1995 Metro used on my 91 Metro)
L is measured outside the bar ends, ignoring the end links.
I was looking at my bars and it might help to flip the end links to the inside of the longer bar. Being longer, the '95+ 24mm bar would be a little softer than the 24mm MK3 GT bar.
i suppose mounting the clamps/rubbers closer together also softens ???
Does anyone have pictures of their Metro rear sway bar mounts? Just wondering as I had never looked at the rear until I received my sway bars from cmaxxer
imagine my dismay when I got the front mounted, and jacked up the rear end of the car to discover....no mounting points!!! and I just purchased another sway bar and mounts for my '94 metro! :O so now I have two bars and bushings I need to install. Just interested in seeing how others have done this same mod if any!
this may take 2 hrs and is really worth it!
you can get some matching nuts & lock washers for the original bolts
buy 4 high grade nuts, lock washers and bolts to go thru the mounts.
buy 4 two inch diameter washers or 2 pcs of 1/8" steel -- for the inside surface between the pan and bolts.
select a SHARP drill bit to match the hole in the mt.
raise the car high enough to drill from below.
attach the end links finger tight and the bar centered.
then position the mts 1" inward on the floor pan.
mark the 2 forward holes and drill them from below.
use vicegrip to keep bolt from turning,
assemble everything and drill the 2 rear holes from below.
Just to add to this, the Convertible Firefly/metro doesn't come with the front sway bar..but the body mounts are there and so are the holes in the A-arms..all you have to do is bolt it on.
As for the rear, there's a hole in the A-arms for the end-links, but just as you say you have to drill the 4 holes in the underbody to fasten the thing,
if you want to have car balanced you need to choose right anti roll bars.. stiffer front bar will increase under-steer, while stiffer rear bar will increase oversteer.. you can also use polyurethane bushing instead of rubber to increase stiffness a little.. but that's goes together with wheels alignment (caster, camber, toe), springs and shocks, using LSD in gearbox and so on..
it's best to get shocks and springs u like first, then do right wheels alignment (there you can play around a little to get right settings) then choose anti roll bars based on cars handling..
I'll add to that:
Another way to put it is that a swaybar decreases the grip on the end of the car it is installed, and transfers a bit to the opposite end. If you are a racer then, the way to set up your car properly is to choose the correct spring rates to get the best grip and then tune the handling balance with swaybars. In fact, there are some who believe that the fastest setup does not use swaybars at all, and the idea is that you wouldn't need large ones if you got your spring rates right.
The reason street cars have swaybars at all is that the spring rates that get the best grip for racing are too stiff to be comfortable on the street, so manufacturers add bars to control roll and improve handling without impacting ride quality as much. It is always a compromise, however.
For a Metro/Swift there are a couple of things that are relevant to choosing a bar for a street-driven car:
1. If you are not running an LSD (and you probably aren't) then you need to transfer as much grip as possible to the front wheels.
2. You can't really pick and choose spring rates unless you have a coilover setup (you have some control cutting, but not much) and even aftermarket springs are likely too soft for best grip and transition.
3. Understeer is boring, but it's safe. If you have too much bar in back and not enough in front, you can turn your car into a FWD drift car, which isn't good either.
Given 1 and 2, for a FWD street car I think it's reasonable to install the biggest bar you can in the back first. If you now have a drift car, then add a bar in the front too--though I would try the smallest first so you don't lose the grip you need to hook up coming out of a corner.
If you are racing and can change spring rates, I'd go with just an adjustable bar in the back.