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By blueturbofly
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#12357
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some new pipe, just in case…
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the important bendy part arrived friday…

the resonator is no good…
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had a crack at the seam, and leaked from there when air blown thru it…i HATE exhaust leaks :mad:
so, i did a '‘resonator delete’‘, to go along with the ’‘cat delete’' that someone else did…i cut the flange off of the resonator so it matched the existing flange, and the mocked it all up underneath…
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cut about 4′' from the long length of pipe, and used the coupler at the flange, the long pipe, then the bendy part, attached to the new muffler…once it was all in a decent position, i tack welded the pipe sections, but not the muffler…then removed the bendy section w/ flange and welded all the joints together…
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then installed pipe into muffler, new gasket at flange, and tighten bolts…..then weld an exhaust hanger bracket to pipe, to use the oem rubber mount…
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has good clearance, doesnt rub on anything…all for like $70 ? ALOT cheaper than my usual muffler shop…they charge $300 + for exhaust work…thats new 2′' pipe front to rear, and a generic muffler, no flange for easier removal / repair…
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By blueturbofly
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#12358
did a test run with it, out to the landfill, after the exhaust was done. nice and quiet, the way a 3 cylinder should be…
BUT
the trans doesnt want to shift properly…even double clutching, it doesnt want to shift easily, into any gear….i did put syncromesh in the trans, when i replaced the one axle….will adjust the clutch cable and see if that makes a difference. will double check the shifter bushings as well.

the temp goes up, just over ¼ , but if it stops and just idles it gets closer to the cold mark….the coolant is good in it, but it may just need cooling system flush…and, it was -20 or colder outside, and windy.. :x but it does have decent heat coming out of the vents…

the engine has a mystery '‘knock’' that it didnt have 2 years ago…i did drive it around the yard, and the engine ran decent…now it has like a nasty rod knock on decel, after being revved up…but runs smooth with no noise at idle…you would figure that the oil pressure being its lowest at idle it would knock or flicker the oil pressure light- but nope !! may have to install a oil pressure gauge and see what that tells me.
unless it has broken piston skirts… :-(

i do have a set of .25 rod bearings on hand, but that most likely will be too tight for proper oil clearances…unless the crank is ground…
the engine oil has been changed, it has 0 km on it, but 2 years sitting in the shop….

filled the tank with premium gas , the tank gauge must not be working properly….i hardly put in 22 liters, from ¼ on the dash gauge, but it was full at the filler neck…and when i got back home it was reading just over ¾….maybe a few fill-ups and bumpy roads will get it working properly again. this is the 3rd fuel tank that has been installed into it…oem had bad pump , 2nd used tank install, the pump went bad the next day, so we installed another tank from a running donor car… :laugh:

so, a few bugs to work out of it.
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By fireflyse
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#12361
blueturbofly wrote: Sun Jan 09, 2022 9:43 am
fireflyse wrote:

Image If this guy did half the job you have done it’s worth the $4500usd he’s asking.

there was a company in the states making these. seen them listed for sale many years ago….would make for a perfect MOBILE METRO MECHANIC vehicle….you could carry a spare engine and trans in the back, as well as a bunch of other related parts, and the tools needed, to do such repairs, in the local wal-mart parking lot…. :laugh:

If this were 30 years ago I could see making a business case on this. BTW You do really nice work.
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By blueturbofly
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#12363
removed crank pulley and timing cover, belt and tensioner are good, installed crank pulley ( without alt and water pump hooked up) and new plugs, it smokes somewhat terrible, and knocks like a jehova witness….. :-(

will drop the pan after lunch and check it out… :sick:
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By blueturbofly
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#12365
KNOCK KNOCK!

whos there?

Rod….
Rod who?
ROD 3 , I WANT OUT!!!!! :-( :-( :-(
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yup, #3 rod is toast. crank is scored- turned a rod bearing.

#2 has two large cracks in the piston skirt. :-(

now to find a core
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By fireflyse
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#12367
I never lost a bottom end in the millions of km’s I’ve done with these. Someone must of rode ’er hard
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By blueturbofly
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#12369
fireflyse wrote:

I never lost a bottom end in the millions of km’s I’ve done with these. Someone must of rode ’er hard

this engine has been apart. it has someones date code / invoice # stamped into the head, by the #2 sparkplug. most likely a shop that regards these engines as disposable, and rebuilt it as such. clowns !!!

the core engine that i have sitting in the shop has 150 / 90 / 150….leak-down test confirms worn rings, as well as a bad valve on #2…hence the 90 psi…
will use this bottom end, and the head from the car, to make an ok engine. its not what i normally do, but i want this car out of the shop…

now just to find those extra 3tech head bolts i have….they are somewhere…i have all the other gaskets and seals that are needed , in stock….yeah, its a sickness…. ;-)
fireflyse, Walt liked this
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By Walt
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#12370
:-o
That’s not a sickness.
That is just easy to build in your spare free time.
Like a free sunday afternoon.
When all shops are closed
:-D
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By blueturbofly
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#12371
That’s not a sickness.
That is just easy to build in your spare free time.
Like a free sunday afternoon.
When all shops are closed
:-D[/quote]

this core engine / transmission is a dirty little piggy….needs a good clean, BEFORE i start doing repairs….
I HATE WORKING ON DIRTY STUFF :mad:
so much grease / dirt build-up, you can hardly see the casting ribs on the trans housing…. :-o
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