[GT4LIFE]

I made some purchase for the 20% off Black Friday with MegaZip today. No plan on installing them anytime soon. The only major part was a new rear right side steering knuckle. I have always had a vibration from that corner, and I believe that rod might have been out of alignment very slightly. I will have to buy another set of the poly bushings for the rear knuckle before installing.

[GT4LIFE]

I picked up some Koni yellow sport rear struts, a fender roller ( I need to roll the rear fender out and up about a ¼″. I also finished soldering up the Jimstim simulator. I feel a lot more confident in my circuit board soldering skills now to take on the actual Megasquirt II board. I would like to go to COP, but I think I will put everything together with the stock ignition components. I think I should know how that goes together before I start adding other parts. I’m stocking up in parts for a Summer install including the rear Wilwood brake system.

[GT4LIFE]

Finally the rear Koni yellow struts (87 2429Sport) arrived. It took a month to get from Andy’s Auto Sport. Good thing I didn’t want to install them any time soon. Just to clarify for others these do not have a turn knob and have to be adjusted off the car. You fully compress the strut and put the upper shaft non-thread part (not the outer shaft that needs to remain completely unblemished) in a vice and rotate clockwise to increase dampening force (the video show him holding it in his hand and compresses and then turns clockwise). The directions say + = 180 degrees, ++ = 360 degrees, and max. ++++ = 720 degrees. I’m assuming that you can rotate it 540 degrees to get ++++ but it does show. I’m not sure but the video I watched from Koni suggest that it is a linear progression of increase of rebound dampening force. They are not double adjustable for both rebound and compression forces.

My KYB Excel-G rear struts are not worn, but definitely were not firm enough. Hopefully the Koni yellows will be a better fit. I’ll start by adjusting them to the ½ way setting between min and max. Really it is the compression force that I want to increase and not the rebound. Even this I don’t know for sure because Koni does have double adjustable struts without the 2nd adjustment were turning it is adjusting both at once. I’ll find out if the Koni yellows are firmer on the compression then the KYB Excel-G. I think they will be. Coming out of a hard turn the increased rebound dampening will give me more control.

Talk about shipping the Whiteline front lower control arm poly bushing finally was shipped after three months. I order it Nov 30th. They will not email you if there stuff is backordered. They will reply to your email if you ask what is up.

[GT4LIFE]

Fedex lost my Whiteline bushings that I have been waiting 3 months for. They probably dropped it off else where because they scanned it as delivered. Whiteline I think is sending out a replacement. They said it wasn’t their responsibility to ensure delivery but that they would honor sending out a replacement. I just said looking forward to seeing the part. It is always the seller who is responsible to ensure delivery. It doesn’t matter if a delivery agent checks it as delivered. It is on the seller to reclaim compensation from the delivery agent and for the seller to make it right.

Really looking at the Turbonetics T3 50 turbo. I’m going to call them on my next day off to see if they have the water cooled 4 bolt version. I call Jegs first to find out which one they are actually selling or if they can get that one since they are $200 less. I also want to see a real compressor map from them.

I’m purchasing a set of the engine mounts from Australia. I’m ordering the 70 duro poly black mounts. I’m also switching out my lower front control arms with brand new Moog ones, but I’ll put in new front Whiteline poly bushings, and transfer over the Whiteline front rear bushings with the different offset. I did get the correct matching lower left front control arm. Moog RK620305 (right) & RK620306 (left).

I switched to Royal Purple 10w40 HP street performance synthetic oil. It did bring my warm idle oil pressure up. I turned down my idle a full turn in response. About a $1.66 more a quart. About $10 more a change. It sounded happier. The only thing I don’t like it is hard to see on the dip stick when new.

[GT4LIFE]

I keep forgetting to post this. The CenterForce Dual Surface clutch does vibrate like crazy over 6500 rpms. I didn’t notice it at all before it was turbo charged, but as I jump up a lot faster through the higher rpms it is pretty bad. I was warned about this from another member on Redlinegti.com, but dismissed it because I wasn’t experiencing it. I can deal with it for now, but I am going to switch it out for something else when I upgrade the transmission.