I was having similar issues. I sprayed out the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, and clean the distributor points. I also moved the distributor ever so slightly more advanced. I did all of them at once so I'm not sure what solved the problem, but the intermittent bucking was gone. This was on the GT though.
pontiac truck
- Thread starter blueturbofly
- Start date
blueturbofly
Well-known member
since i swapped the vaf, the temp code has gone away-will try one item at a time, see which one is possibly the problem-
blueturbofly
Well-known member
still has a faint stumble-and twice it cut out at 4,000 rpm-been busy with other things and havent had a chance to chase the issue as of yet.
blueturbofly
Well-known member
changed the engine coil. will run it for the next week and see if the faint stumble is gone, along with the random cutting out it does....
blueturbofly
Well-known member
changed the dizzy yesterday- installed a different one, with a new oem suzuki o-ring- nice fit. hoping this cures the stutter.
i have an extra igniter in the glove box, can swap that out if needed as well- one item at a time, dont want to pull the parts cannon trigger and change a bunch of stuff at the same time, then you have no clue which item was the junk one-
had an issue with the wipers. only high would work- no low or intermittent- tried 2 different switches, still same problem-
pulled dash and followed wires back to a bulk-head fitting, finding the issue in that connector. poor contacts.
wipers now work properly.
replaced the dash light bulbs with led bulbs, while the dash was out-
installed new 10' subwoofers. may build a custom box so they fit, and sound, better.
repaired the fuel tank filler door bump-stops.
need some new door hinges.
i have an extra igniter in the glove box, can swap that out if needed as well- one item at a time, dont want to pull the parts cannon trigger and change a bunch of stuff at the same time, then you have no clue which item was the junk one-
had an issue with the wipers. only high would work- no low or intermittent- tried 2 different switches, still same problem-
pulled dash and followed wires back to a bulk-head fitting, finding the issue in that connector. poor contacts.
wipers now work properly.
replaced the dash light bulbs with led bulbs, while the dash was out-
installed new 10' subwoofers. may build a custom box so they fit, and sound, better.
repaired the fuel tank filler door bump-stops.
need some new door hinges.
blueturbofly
Well-known member
my fuel lid door repair- 2 X 1/4 ''p'' clamps and 2 metal screws.
the oem metal tabs were broken off. this works pretty good. lid now sits nice and flush with the car.
THE RANDOM STUMBLE IS NOW GONE!!!!!!
Changing the dizzy seems to have cured the problem. revs to 6500 and hits the governor no problem !!
the oem metal tabs were broken off. this works pretty good. lid now sits nice and flush with the car.
THE RANDOM STUMBLE IS NOW GONE!!!!!!
Changing the dizzy seems to have cured the problem. revs to 6500 and hits the governor no problem !!
blueturbofly
Well-known member
so far all good- runs great, no stumbles-
stereo sounds better with the name brand subwoofers installed- BUT the speaker boxes are falling apart !!!ha ha
will build a custom fit box- but thats not a really important issue-
now onto the rear suspension-thats important -
stereo sounds better with the name brand subwoofers installed- BUT the speaker boxes are falling apart !!!ha ha
will build a custom fit box- but thats not a really important issue-
now onto the rear suspension-thats important -
blueturbofly
Well-known member
rear lower control arms-built these for russel. helps keep them from being damaged by the gravel road.
all new whiteline bushings to be installed.
possible solid toe arm bars to be installed- i have a spare pair that need new ends- if not, i have new, oem toe / lateral rods that i could install...
this is the second set i have ''built'' for the gravel road out here....
Whow that lookes riged!
I only seen such a biefed up rear lower control arm.
On the VLN racer we bought years ago
I only seen such a biefed up rear lower control arm.
On the VLN racer we bought years ago
blueturbofly
Well-known member
changed oil n filter. in the market for brake hoses (stainless braided)
ends for the aftermarket toe rods should be here in a week or so- then bushing / alignment time.
ends for the aftermarket toe rods should be here in a week or so- then bushing / alignment time.
blueturbofly
Well-known member
adjusted drivers door lock . sprayed inside of door with rubberized undercoating. repaired the door panel itself.
repaired one of the speaker boxes.
mothers day weekend i will try to get the rear suspension replaced. maybe install an underbody brace.
repaired one of the speaker boxes.
mothers day weekend i will try to get the rear suspension replaced. maybe install an underbody brace.
blueturbofly
Well-known member
well, all the rear suspension is out except for the knuckles / drums. some of the bolts had to be cut, and surprisingly the usual rusted toe rod adjustment bolts-came out easily, no rust!!!
cleaned the bores for the new bushings. had to press out the old bushings (just the rubber) and then cut the metal shell, and use a punch and chisel to remove the oem metal shell. no fun there.
had one bolt snap off in the unibody- one of the bolts for the forward rubber mount- did the welded nut to broken bolt trick-after the 3rd welded- on nut, the broken bolt came out-!
new rod ends in the aluminum toe bars-
scraped off any loose paint / undercoating. and sprayed the inner rear wheel wells with rubberized asphalt undercoating- help give the car a fighting chance-
today, try to get it all put back together.
also adding extra helper springs - they fit over the rear strut just perfectly, and add more suspension stiffness, but doesnt raise the rear end- i had them in the car before- they were removed by my son when he did some suspension work on the car a few years ago-we were in a hurry and just needed to move the car so they didnt get re-installed-
need to grab the underbody brace from the dead vert out in the yard....
hmmm-i have a pair of rear gti disc brake knuckles....
a good full day yesterday...
cleaned the bores for the new bushings. had to press out the old bushings (just the rubber) and then cut the metal shell, and use a punch and chisel to remove the oem metal shell. no fun there.
had one bolt snap off in the unibody- one of the bolts for the forward rubber mount- did the welded nut to broken bolt trick-after the 3rd welded- on nut, the broken bolt came out-!
new rod ends in the aluminum toe bars-
scraped off any loose paint / undercoating. and sprayed the inner rear wheel wells with rubberized asphalt undercoating- help give the car a fighting chance-
today, try to get it all put back together.
also adding extra helper springs - they fit over the rear strut just perfectly, and add more suspension stiffness, but doesnt raise the rear end- i had them in the car before- they were removed by my son when he did some suspension work on the car a few years ago-we were in a hurry and just needed to move the car so they didnt get re-installed-
need to grab the underbody brace from the dead vert out in the yard....
hmmm-i have a pair of rear gti disc brake knuckles....
a good full day yesterday...
I know how much fun it is to chisel out those bushing o.e.m. sleeves. I'm thinking about buying BC Racing coil overs with the Swift spring upgrade (only on the fronts, the name has nothing to do with our cars but is an upgraded metal for springs). I don't know enough about spring rates to know how to order for custom spring rates. I'm curious if you have info on the helper spring your putting back in. To me at this point I would like to try some auto cross and I think that I should have two different setups one for auto cross and one for daily driving. Coilovers will give me clearly some better control over ride height and the ability to control spring rates. Have you messed around with coilovers on a Swift/Geo?